Come Fly With Me

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Last night's pizzas lived up to our high hopes and they were so substantial that we even saved a bit for today's lunch.

We are now half way to Esperance in a little nowhere place called Salmon Gums.  The only real difference from the Nullarbor is that the wilderness is now interspersed with tiny communities rather than roadhouses.  We have still ridden through absolutely nothing for 61 miles.

We are enjoying Australia but it is time to face the elephant in the room.  The flies are driving us crazy.  Any time we stop at the roadside we are immediatey engulfed by flies of a particularly nimble, cunning and tenacious variety. They are too fast to swat and waving arms about gives only momentary relief.  This, however, is only the start of the problem.  When we set off a gain, a little community of flies comes with us.  They live on our backs where the air is calmer, from where they launch raids to crawlnim our ears or lay eggs on our eyeballs.  The only trick worth knowing is to ride at the back where at least you get the fun of watching the other person flailing madly while you suffer through your own little fly-hell. 

The Salmon Gums Motel (The only place to stay in a 110 mile stretch of road) is closed and covered in For Sale signs.  There is also a sign on the door suggesting it should open at 3:30 so we are sheltering from the flies in the gas station and preying that it hasn't closed for good.

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